The puppy recharge

Samba la Bamba in her puppy room.

Samba la Bamba in her puppy room.

By now you’ve probably already read about the Canadian university starting a “puppy room,” where stressed students can let it all out while nuzzling fuzzy little bundles of awesomeness. (Yes, I’m a little jealous that I missed out on this phenomenon. What’s the deal, Tufts?)

The article in the Guardian revealing the new therapy stand-in posited that the pup emporium is perfect, because actually owning an animal can be stressful, not to mention smelly, time consuming and fairly permanent. I argue none of these points (there’s nothing quite like fretting over the consistency of your dog’s feces to make you wonder why you own one in the first place), but I will argue this: Having a animal that loves you, that sees you coming and practically throws out its back in tail-wagging joy, that puts its head on your shoulder when you’re having a bad day, that’s better than any puppy-stuffed classroom.

Every morning, I wake up early pushed half off the bed by my 60-pound mutt, Samba. And every morning as I try to sneak out of the apartment without waking Tovin or forgetting my work clothes, Samba comes staggering out to say goodbye and watch me leave. I bend down, she gives me a couple sleepy licks, and I imagine myself in a video game, my life force bar recharging with that half-second gesture of puppy love. It’s all I really need to feel like everything is going to be okay.

Life lessons in shower sandals

This morning, Dutchie walked into the locker room and looked at me. “This is getting boring,” she said.

She was referring to our morning routine. I spend an hour pulling tires, running laps and doing weird push-ups with Boot Camp Las Vegas, before heading to the Henderson Multi-Gen to shower and get ready for work. Dutchie, 83, goes for a morning swim, sometimes followed by bridge or time with friends. We meet in the locker room, chat for a moment and then go about our days.

Today, though, Dutchie had an announcement. “I’m going to live to be 100,” she said. “Seventeen more years, then I’ll hang it up.”

I laughed and agreed with her, but she didn’t need any affirmation. There, in a textured black bathing suit with modest bedazzling worn over a thick-strapped bra, her gray hair pulled back in a tight ponytail, she exuded absolute confidence. “It’s been fun. I’ve had a good time. Seventeen more years, that’s enough.”

The more mornings I spend with Dutchie the more I look up to her—her positive attitude, her matter-of-fact demeanor, her full-throated determination to stay healthy by eating well, exercising often and living in a house with stairs. (This, she claims, is her secret.) The only time I’ve ever seen her ill, she was experiencing periodic dizzy spells, nearly fainting and feeling weak. Eventually her doctor diagnosed her with a sodium deficiency. She’d gone overboard on her low-salt diet.

Earlier this year, Dutchie stopped me one morning to whisper with sudden girliness that she had a new boyfriend. “He’s a bridge player. They’re the best ones,” she said. “I don’t love him, but I like him.”

I don’t know if she’s still dating him, and I don’t know if she’s still eating low-sodium food, or doing hot yoga or fasting one day a week. All I know is that she’s decided to live to be 100. And I believe that she’ll get there.

 

Meanwhile at DEF CON …

August 2, 2013, 10:30 a.m., Rio Hotel & Casino. 

The iPhone in my purse is off. So is the laptop I left in the car. You can’t be too careful. This is DEF CON, after all.

I’m at the infamous annual hacker conference for a story about casino security for Las Vegas Weekly, and so far I’ve learned not to use the Wi-Fi, definitely not to log onto anything with a weird name and that undercover feds don’t give high fives to kids with cardboard signs asking them to do just that. The tin foil-covered cowboy hat I saw pass by was cute, but it’s powerless against the types roaming these halls, competing in hackersports and listening to talks on femtocells, infiltrating open government systems and, of course, robots.

I’m looking for my next interview when I spot a kid in glasses sitting on a bench. Naturally, I hover over him and wait an awkward 30 seconds before I start talking.

Me: Hi, my name’s Sarah and I’m working on a story for a local magazine. Could I ask you a few questions?

Kid: Uh, I’m not really comfortable with that.

Me: It’s okay, I don’t have to use your name. It’s just about how a casino like Rio deals with security when a conference like DEF CON is here.

Kid: I’m not comfortable answering any questions.

I’ve already employed my perkiest voice and there are thousands of other people wearing the totally hackable DEF CON 21 badge that looks like a playing card, so I give up. Fine. Be uncomfortable! But the hallway is suddenly packed with attendees shuffling in the opposite direction of where I want to go. I’m stuck next to Uncomfortable Glasses Kid, and now I’m the one feeling uncomfortable. I stare into my notebook as if it contained some secret that I hadn’t just written. Finally, he speaks:

Kid: Excuse me, do you know what time it is?

He’s holding a smart phone in his hand, looking at it as he asks me. Out of instinct I check my wrist, but it’s bare. I’m about to reach for my phone, when I remember that it’s off. That’s right, I’m at a hacker conference, talking to a hacker who’s holding his own phone and is too uncomfortable to give me an anonymous interview.

Me: No, I don’t. I’m sorry.

 

Are the chefs lying to me?

Biscuits: the homemade variety. Photo by Tovin Lapan

This is a blog about biscuits. Incredible biscuits. But it’s also about the truth.

It all started last year when I picked up a copy of Saveur in the Denver Airport and opened it to find a picture of Island Creek Oyster Bar chef Jeremy Sewall with his famous biscuits. Giant, fluffy, golden monsters draped in honey rosemary butter that sell for $4 a piece at the Kenmore Square restaurant in Boston, these biscuits had become a minor obsession for Tovin and me since we tried them a few summers ago. I’d tried to get the recipe through a half-hearted Twitter campaign. But the ICOB social media team stayed tough. Damn them.

But thanks to Saveur, the recipe was mine. There was much rejoicing and texting.

Tovin and I whipped up a batch not too long after landing back in Vegas. We followed the recipe step by step, but the dough was dry and crumbly. So, we tried again, shaping bigger biscuits this time, hoping to approximate Island Creek’s pillowy carbo goodness. More crumbs. Finally, I asked a pastry chef for her professional diagnosis. More buttermilk, she said.

Our third attempt was the best one yet—dough that kept its shape, large, hot biscuits with soft, fluffy centers and lots of that honey butter. But something was still off. We were still eating amateur hour.

I mentioned my plight to a friend whose work involves the restaurant industry, and she laughed. Chefs never give out their real recipes, she said. What we’d gotten were general guidelines, a rough sketch that with the proper technique and generous tweaking could come close to the real deal. The recipe wasn’t a blue print, it was paint by numbers directions.

Which brings me (finally) to the question I’ve really been wanting to ask: Are the chefs lying? Are they keeping the secrets of their signature dishes even as they claim to reveal all? Is it all a big farce?

Either way, I’m determined that Tovin and I will conquer the Island Creek Oyster Bar biscuits. (On a recent trip to Boston, a friend with some inside information mentioned layers.) With some experimentation, a few more batches and maybe a tasting session or two at the source, we’ll get closer. And when we want the real thing, well, we’ll know where to go.

Cooking, crawling and all types of ill shit

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Hey look! It’s a stop on my new favorite bar crawl: the Velveteen Rabbit. (Shhh. Don’t tell.)

Every time I go out, people ask, “What’s new?” And, in keeping with social custom, I give them a non-answer: “Not much.” Sometimes I even say, “Same old same.” Can you believe how stupid that sounds? Neither can I. 

Worse, it’s a total lie. Things are new. Samba’s midway through devouring a new rope toy. I cooked a new orzo salad last weekend. I’m newly obsessed with dapper Australian singer Willy Moon (just try not dancing to “Railroad Track”). And I’m contemplating a new adventure that involves driving a three-wheeled motorbike across Peru. Okay fine, I’ve been thinking about that one for a while. 

And work? Well …

First, I made a plea for a Downtown Las Vegas water fight. You know, a depths-of-summer, all-out, Super Soaker-packing, blast-your-neighbor affair inspired by the water gun battles in Jerusalem that help relieve the heat and tension just before Shabbat.

Then I found my new favorite bar crawl, a Downtown jaunt that doesn’t touch Fremont Street, doesn’t have a single dress code or velvet rope and includes a place that serves seasonal punch in charming little glasses. It can be your favorite new bar crawl, too.

Scarpetta chef Scott Conant taught me to make his signature spaghetti, a simple dish that’s far richer than it has any right to be. The keys: good pasta, good tomatoes, a good helping of butter. The takeaway: I will never rinse pasta again. (It’s very, very bad and gets rid of all that good starch that helps pasta bind to sauce.)

Finally, I got to spend an afternoon at Calico Basin gawking at local rock climber/Porsche racer/pilot/all around badass Simon Peck make tricky routes look like absolute cake. He’s as humble as they come, and watching him on the cliffs made me want to squeeze my feet into a pair of elfin-sized shoes and give climbing another shot. 

So, yeah, stuff’s new. 

#DogsoftheDR

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A pair of stray dogs enjoy the beach in Las Terrenas, Dominican Republic.

In June 2013, Tovin and I spent 10 days traveling around the Dominican Republic by Chevy Aveo and our sometimes flawed sense of direction. Everywhere we went, we met dogs. Some were strays, some had owners, some reveled in our attention, some ignored us completely.

We documented the animals we met, Instagrammed them under the hashtag #dogsofthedr, and now, we share them with you. Enjoy. And don’t forget to pet a stray.

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Tonta, chief greeter at Tubagua Eco Plantation, overlooks the lush hills along the Ruta Panorámica.

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The pint-sized mascot of Vacabar in Cabarete, Chica.

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Fetch on Playa Las Ballenas in Las Terrenas.

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Rico, a four-month-old great dane, lives at cliffside restaurant El Cabito.

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A dog sleeps on Playa Encuentro in Cabarete.

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Muchacha, Las Galeras

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Las Galeras, Dominican Republic

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One-eyed beach bum, Las Terrenas

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Las Terrenas, Dominican Republic

Falling for a new place, one run at a time

Playa Rincon in Las Galeras, Dominican Republic.

Playa Rincon in Las Galeras, Dominican Republic.

I fall in love with sneakers on. Not in a kinky shoes-on-in-the-bedroom way. As a relatively recent convert to the cult of running, I find that I see  places differently when I lace up my Mizuno Wave Riders, take a quick look at Google Maps, and head out for a run. I see more. I see differently. And it’s not just the sweat pouring into my eyes that changes the view.

My first experience in travel running (as opposed to running travel, when you go somewhere in order to run), was in Hanoi, Vietnam. I parlayed vicious jet lag and an Old Quarter hotel into early morning jogs around Hoan Kiem Lake. While fruit and vegetable vendors unloaded their wares from bamboo baskets and the neighborhood’s winding side streets sprung to life, I cued up Regina Spektor for slow loops around the central Hanoi lake in perfectly crisp November weather. And far from being alone, I had company in the form of elderly Vietnamese exercise groups who gaped openly at the white girl trotting in circles while they wielded fans and swords in graceful arcs or did aerobics to directions broadcast over loud speakers. By day three, the stares had turned to smiles, waves or total ambivalence. I had become part of the landscape. It was fabulous.

When I returned a year later, it was to the suburbs of Hanoi, where my runs took me through tiny villages on the edge of the ever-expanding city. Just a few blocks from major roads and massive high-rises, people seemed to be holding onto small-town lives. Getting lost on their narrow streets among motorbikes and uniformed school kids (with zero ability to ask for directions) was one of the highlights of my visit.

Just this month I was reminded why I always make room for running shoes in my suitcase, when I laced up for a few miles in Las Galeras, Dominican Republic. A fishing town quite literally at the end of the road on the Samaná Peninsula (park when the pavement ends and get a whole grilled fish from the tía who runs the show at the beachside restaurant), Las Galeras is still relatively free from megaresorts that dominate the country’s more trafficked locales thanks in large part to its distance from just about everywhere. Between dining cliffside and snorkeling over sea urchins the size of basketballs and sunny in front of clear Caribbean waters, I snuck in a morning run.

Playa Fronton, a snorkeling and scuba diving location, in Las Galeras, Dominican Republic.

Playa Fronton, a snorkeling and scuba diving location, in Las Galeras, Dominican Republic.

I started roadside, passing small hotels and private homes set amid lush tropical landscaping. When the street stopped, a woman manning a small snack stand pointed me up, away from the beach and along a cratered dirt road that narrowed and grew more cratered as it climbed. I passed a construction site, a bed and breakfast and a private home where a woman sang to kids running in the yard. The road disintegrated into dirt and rocks, and a lone motorbike picked through the mess, moving at about my same speed. The vegetation grew thicker and the whine of insects filled the thick air. I started to wonder just how far I was planning to go.

At the top of the hill, the beach just barely visible below, I rounded a curve to find a trio of horses blocking my way. They were healthy, well cared for and free to wander. But they didn’t run. They just stood and stared back as I approached. And then in the grass just off the path, I saw why they stared: a small caramel-colored foal lay in the grass next to its mother.

I turned around shortly after, soaked in sweat, my legs turning to jelly and so elated that the rest of the run passed by in a flash. I didn’t put my running shoes back on the rest of the trip. But it didn’t matter. In four miles I’d fallen in love.

Sunset in the DR

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For seven days, Tovin and I waited for a Dominican sunset. You know, sun melting into the liquid horizon, clouds painting the sky, the kind of moment best appreciated to the tune of lapping waves with an ice-cold Presidente or heavily garnished cocktail in hand. For six nights we were thwarted.

The rainy season’s rolling clouds and sun would put on a show by day, but come evening, banks of heavy cumulo-somethings would take over. From the beaches of Samana Peninsula we’d shrug, Not today, I guess.

Then, on Day Seven, perched on a hill in the tiny town of Tubagua along the rustic Ruta Panoramica “highway,” we were rewarded for our patience. As we sat reading and chatting in our eco plantation’s open-walled restaurant, the Dominican sky finally put on the show we’d been hoping to see. Even without the waves or beer, it was perfect.

Hallelujah. The AC is on

This is what Vegas feels like in the summer. I'll have my June flame-broiled, thank you.

This is what Vegas feels like in the summer. I’ll have my June flame-broiled, thank you.

I have a love/hate relationship with air conditioning.

Living in Las Vegas, it is an absolute necessity. But for 6 months of the year, it also turns casinos into meat lockers and becomes an enormous drain on bank accounts—the kind of bills that make you gasp a little and run to the thermostat to bump the temp up to 79. I spent my first summer here in a mild state of shock. The city felt like the inside of an oven every time I stepped onto the pavement. I probably did a lot of muttering about how the desert wasn’t meant to sustain human life.

But now, I’m a Vegas summer pro. I know that I have to go for runs before 7 a.m. That even pools can be unbearably hot. That anything left in your car in the sun will melt, including pieces of the car itself.

I’m not sure when Tovin and I decided that we weren’t going to turn our AC on ’til June 1 this year, but once the gauntlet was set, there was no going back. We were going to wait—and sweat—it out.

Well, today’s June 1, and let me tell you, it feels great in here. The thermostat is set to a balmy 78; I didn’t wake up to splash cold water on myself in the middle of the night; even the house plants look happier. And Samba? We’ve already played a few rounds of indoor morning fetch. Poor girl is stuck in an all-season fur coat, after all.

Of course, the inevitable power bill and accompanying gasp will arrive in a few weeks. And of course, I’ll hate paying it. But that’s just the price of living in the desert. And I can spend the extra $100 we saved in May on something way better than air conditioning—like dinner.

Ragnar Relay hits the trail (and kicks my ass)

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The spoils of our toils. Sweet piece of hardware.

The temporary tattoo on my right calf is starting to fade, so I figured it’s time for a few quick thoughts on the first Ragnar Trail Relay at Zion Ponderosa Ranch in Utah. They can be boiled down pretty quickly:

  1. Trail running is hard.
  2. Trail running at elevation is very hard.
  3. And trail running at elevation in the dark? See thoughts 1 and 2.

Like a regular Ragnar Relay (if such a thing exists), Ragnar Trail features teams of runners each tackling three legs day and night until the course is complete. The last Las Vegas road race started in snow on Mt. Charleston, took us through a freezing night in the lonely desert and to the shores of Lake Mead. This race would be different.

Held just outside Zion National Park in the stunning scenery of Southern Utah, Ragnar Trail ditched sidewalks and paved paths for ATV trails and mountain bike single track. Crews of eight runners cycled through three different color-coded routes all of which started and ended at the same base camp surrounded by 200 teams in tents and sleeping bags.

I thought I had trained enough. In fact, after notching a 10-mile run on McCullough Hills Trail—a dusty, hilly, exposed jaunt through Henderson, Nevada—I might have even uttered the words “Ragnar’s going to be a breeze,” to a training buddy. Windy? Yes. Breeze? Not so much.

I realized about 10 minutes into my first run that I had this race all wrong. This wouldn’t be a relaxing jog through the woods; this was a calf-killing, breath-sucking adventure in endurance. This would require climbing 500 feet in a single mile, cresting a ridge at 7,000 feet and taking on steep, curving descents that felt like Mario Kart in sneakers. Like all Ragnar Relays, it would be incredibly challenging. And like all Ragnar Relays, it would be incredibly rewarding.

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Twenty-two hours after our first runner took off, Jathan makes for the finish line at Ragnar Trail Relay Zion.

And Ragnar Trail Zion had a little extra magic to it. Along with gorgeous sunny weather and a clear, starry night, we had 12-hour bonfires, a man with a handlebar mustache singing campfire songs, pancake breakfast, a few hours of sleep and flush toilets(!). My team even had a homemade Eskimo-kissing booth set up for those fun between-run hours and Christmas lights strung up on our tents.

It took 22 hours for my team of eight to complete the 120 miles through Zion Ponderosa Ranch. When we ran across that finish line together, we were hot, stinky and mostly exhausted, but we were smiling. Ragnar Trail will do that to you.