Your new favorite biscuits (trust me)

The biscuit-lover in this family is definitely Tovin. The man has a Montgomery Biscuits baseball hat (their mascot is a biscuit with a pad of butter for a tongue), nicknamed our dog Biscuit and orders the delightful carb bombs pretty much everywhere we go. Two years ago at his birthday dinner, we discovered the best biscuits in the world. They’re made at Island Creek Oyster Bar in Boston.

Yes, Boston isn’t the first place you think of when you hear the word biscuits, but these beauties are golden brown flaky treats drenched in butter and honey with a hint of rosemary. They run $4 a pop, and take up most of the plate they’re served on. I’ve been singing their praises ever since that dinner, and thanks to Saveur annual Saveur 100 issue, now I have chef Jeremy Sewell’s recipe. We haven’t quite been able to capture the lightness of his version yet. But I’m confident we’ll get there with a little more practice.

 

The 5 best places I visited in 2012

A pineapple vendor sits on her boat at a floating market in the Mekong Delta.

A pineapple vendor sits on her boat at a floating market in the Mekong Delta.


I love the start of the New Year, when the calendar stretches out like a blank page free from the restrictions of plans and obligations that start cluttering it up and pushing all the fun and possibility out. Right now you can still dream of taking off to Brazil for a month or kayaking to secret campgrounds or learning to scuba dive in Sinai. For the first weeks of January, anything is possible. It’s magical.

That feeling got me thinking about the places I saw and the trips I took last year. Some were the stuff of wild New Year’s dreams, others were weekend trips that wowed with unsuspected charms. All are worth your time. So here, in no particular order, are the best places I visited in 2012.

IMG_2436-edit1. Mekong River Delta, Vietnam I spent last New Year’s Eve in Vietnam, visiting my parents who were spending six months in Hanoi, teaching classes and generally discovering the hilarity of living in a place where your best efforts at verbal communication are met with confused laughter. My three-week trip took me north to the Chinese border on an overnight train, to the terraced emerald hills of Sapa, where we trekked with local native women to see tribal villages, and to the glittering boulevards of Ho Chi Minh City decked in Chanel and Dior. From there, we took off on a two-day tour of the Mekong River Delta, a network of wide waterways and chugging streams where everything is overgrown and tremendously alive. We biked down winding island paths, drank fresh sugar cane juice and sputtered about a floating market filled with fruit and vegetable vendors shouting their wares from metal hulled skiffs. Life moves a little slower on the water. Wonderfully so.

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2. The Narrows at Zion National Park I’m currently big toenail-less thanks to this scenic hike through Southern Utah’s breathtaking national park. I’ve been wanting to hike the Narrows since my first
visit to Zion a year and a half ago. While my friends tackled a 12-hour trip through the Subway that weekend, I spent a few hours solo, hiking the Narrows from the bottom up. Crowds pour into the watery slot canyon from Zion’s main drag, boulder hopping and wading back and forth across the Virgin River, moving upstream and thinning out as the water level and mileage rises. This year we came back with a group of friends and a backcountry permit to do the Narrows the right way: top down over two days with a night camping in the canyon in the middle. And despite the throbbing in my toes from too-small rental shoes and a backpack weighed down with crap I should’ve left home, this is one of the best hikes I’ve ever done. Every bend in the river reveals steep sloping walls, framing views far too pretty for pictures. I can’t wait to do the Narrows again—in a different pair of boots.

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Dark and cloudy beachscape on Vashon Island

3. Vashon Island Tovin and I spent a weekend at a friend’s beachfront home on this large island in the Puget Sound just off the coast of Seattle, and it wasn’t nearly long enough. Yes, there’s an adorable Downtown, tons of beachy and cliffy coastline and waters begging to be kayaked, but my favorite Vashon activity was a sunny run past the island’s small family farms. Folks here operate on the honor system, leaving fresh produce and eggs roadside with a note showing the day’s price. Even though I didn’t pocket any veggies, I loved exploring this sweet, Northwest escape.

4. Boston Okay, maybe it’s cheating to put my hometown on this list, but when you haven’t been home in over a year, there is something so remarkably comforting about trampling familiar soil, hopping on the same train you’ve always taken (even if it’s the Green Line) and hitting a favorite childhood diner for lunch. Plus, Boston is really fucking cool. Whether you grew up there or not. And of course, it helps to have amazing friends who show you the new hot spots. A few highlights: Island Creek Oyster Bar (get the biscuit, trust me), The Hawthorne (get a few expertly crafted cocktails while you wait for your table at Island Creek), JM Curley (Downtown gastropub), Regal Beagle (ask the bartender for the off-menu cocktail with a full egg in it). And don’t forget to drink water before bed.

5. Portland, Oregon Despite the rain and the gray, I can’t wait to return to Portland after an all-too-quick visit for a college friend’s wedding. Breweries! Chic shops! Book stores! Food trucks! Flea markets! Epic brunches with overly enthusiastic waiters! Yeah, I think Portland is my kind town—even if it makes my hair frizz.

From Ragnar with love

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Jathan and Steph get ready for Steph’s first leg during Ragnar Relay 2012.

It’s Sunday, November 11, and another Ragnar Relay is in the books.

For the last two days, I’ve been running through Las Vegas with 11 friends, starting on Mount Charleston (in the snow) and winding our way around the city out by Red Rock, to Jean and back (in the middle of the night), past Boulder City, to Lake Mead and finally to Lake Las Vegas. In the process, we covered 197.6 miles, ran for 32 straight hours, slept for maybe an hour or two and loved just about every minute of it. Why? I’ll try to explain, but you just have to try it.

In brief, Ragnar is a 200-mile relay race in which teams of 12 runners pile into two vans and run three legs each over two days. But really, it’s much more than that. It’s a crazy bonding experience in which real estate agents, TV personalities, journalists, teachers, doctors and students all ditch their day jobs to focus on their footsteps and making it over the next hill to whack a slap bracelet on a teammate’s wrist. It’s an incredible challenge, as much for the lack of sleep as the mileage, and the kind of race that pushes every competitor, whether they’re a marathon veteran or a running novice. But most of all Ragnar is just fun. It’s a run-all-night, scream-all-day, no-sleep, stomach-aching party—and as miserable as that might sound, it’s a hell of a good time.

This year, was my second Ragnar and just as tough as the first but for very different reasons. Last year’s race started by Lake Mead in 95-plus degree temperatures and full sun. I pushed so hard on my first run—a mere 4 miles—that I felt brutally sick after and barely recovered in time for my second leg some 8 hours later. This year, with the race a few weeks ahead on the calendar, we had the opposite problem. Van 1 started in literal snow on Mount Charleston, and by the time Van 2 took over, we were closing in on sunset with a stiff wind blowing in our faces. As runner 12, I ran all three of my legs in gloves, reflective gear, headlights and darkness.

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These tallies are what motivate you to sprint past that guy in front of you when you can’t feel your calves and your hamstrings are protesting in pain.

Still, Ragnar is one of my favorite weekends of the year. For two days, running is a team sport where you’re cheered on not just by the people leap-frogging you in a van on lonely stretches of pavement but also by your competitors. It’s the only race I’ve ever run where people encourage you as you pass them, and the only race I’ve ever run where the costumes and van decorations are taken as seriously as the pace. This year’s Las Vegas Ragnar even featured American Olympian Nick Symmonds running with Team Nevernudes in full Nevernude regalia (jean short cut-offs).

And team Tireless 12? We kicked some serious ass, conquering middle-of-the-night uphill slogs, vicious cold, 9-mile downhill quad crushers, crazy switchbacks and our own lack of sleep. My best run turned out to be the one I was most nervous about—an 8.9-miler north along Las Vegas Boulevard toward the M Resort during which I locked into a good pace and “killed” 27 other runners on my way to major exchange 24.

For the next few days, I’m sure I’ll start way too many sentences with “During Ragnar …” Then, I’ll get back to the real world, regular running and a life in which we get real sleep and people don’t stop to gawk at our gorgeous Sprinter van named Molly.

It’s been fun. Time to start planning the next Ragnar.

What I’ve been up to

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Cee Lo channels a big red Christmas ornament at his holiday special. Copyright: Erik Kabik/erikkabik.com

Remember in Clueless when Tai uses the word “sporadically” in a sentence for the first time and we’re all really proud and slightly embarrassed for her? Well, this blog has become a sporadic part of my life. Or maybe worse. Maybe it’s occasional.

Anyway, since it’s Friday and I’m stalling at the office before diving into a giant to-do-before-Denver list, figured I’d catch you up on what I’ve been up to lately. Here goes …

First, I tried to write a scary story with a little help from Zak Bagans of Ghost Adventures on the Travel Channel. Turns out, even when you have a haunted 100-year-old rectory, demonic possessions and a real-life exorcism, translating them into something actually frightening is really, really hard.

I also met some recent Vegas transplants working on a badass video game called Battle for Presidency where you can fight as a steroidal Obama or a supernatural Ron Paul. You do not want to mess with Teddy Roosevelt.

And I had a really cool chat with Gail Simmons from Top Chef and Food & Wine in advance of the mag’s All-Star Weekend in Vegas. I refrained from getting all stalkerish and telling her how we both majored in Spanish and anthro and both studied abroad in Spain and isn’t that crazy?!

Finally, I went to a taping for Cee Lo’s upcoming Christmas Special concert with guest appearances by Rod Stewart, Eric Benet, a whole bunch of bright-faced Voice competitors and the Muppets (Coolest. Thing. Ever.). Note to Cee Lo and everyone else in the world: Vinyl suits with floor-length jackets are a very, very bad idea.

Oh yea, and I did Tough Mudder last weekend. That’s about it.

Eli Roth’s Goretorium in 3 photos

Last night, I hit the grand opening of Eli Roth’s Goretorium (aka a year-round haunted house on the Strip). I’ll spare you the gory details, since I wouldn’t want to take the fearful fun out of the attraction, but here are a few photos to give you a vague sense of the attraction created by Hostel director, Newton product, Inglourious Basterds “Bear Jew” Eli Roth. (Not pictured: Roth’s insanely shiny black dress shoes.)

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Click here for instant smile

Click here for instant smile

File this under: Things that make you go awwwwwww

It’s a puppy cam. Nothing special—except that these pit bull-mix pups are about the cutest little roly-poly, floppy, sweet, adorable, canine magic biscuits I’ve ever seen. Think I’ll go home and let Samba lick my ears. 

How much does a naked sushi model get paid?

So, I just had naked sushi for the first time. (Thanks to Alina or Aliana for staying very still and looking very pretty.) And my first thought is this: That was delicious. Really, the fish was lovely, preceded by a slew of appetizer courses including kahlua lumpia, poke, shishito peppers and king crab hand rolls—all stellar. My second thought: How much does that gorgeous girl lying in pasties and panties under a bunch of banana leaves and raw fish make? 

The answer? I honestly have no idea. But if any naked sushi models are reading this (what are the odds?!), I’m just curious: How does it pay? 

 

 

Acoustically amazing

Trust me, when I say this photo (taken from Etsy.com) in no way does justice to ReAcoustic‘s totally acoustic iPhone speaker dock. Your read that right—totally acoustic. These incredible pieces created by Ryan Boase in South Carolina use old instrument or gramophone bells and recycled wood to project sounds from your iPhone (or Droid or iPad) without electrical cords or batteries or small hamsters running on treadmills. Flabbergasted? Click here for a demonstration of how it works.

The piece pictured here is made with a vintage 14-inch Atwater Kent gramophone horn and costs $462. And if you live in Las Vegas, you can pick up pieces from ReAcoustic at my new favorite store, Artifact at the Market LV at Tivoli Village. Just be careful; if you’re anything like me, you’ll pretty much want to buy the whole store while you’re there.

Greenhouse

I took this photo in Sa Pa, Vietnam this past January just a few days after New Year’s. I haven’t posted much about Vietnam on this blog because, well, I’m not entirely sure why. In the immediate aftermath of a trip none of my photos or stories seem to convey the vividness I want them to. Every shot is just a little less magnificent than what I see in my head. Every tale falls just a bit flat.

So, seven months later, I’m finally ready to accept the version of reality in my photos. This is a shot of a house I passed by in the mountain town of Sa Pa near the Chinese border. The city is under fog and rain much of the year, and in the winter it’s particularly damp with a constant penetrating cold and little in the way of indoor heating. The benefit of the climate is that plants seem to grow everywhere. The local indigenous groups grow rice on watery terraces carved into rolling green hills, and even rooftops in town play host to impromptu gardens. This modest home caught my eye for its living roof.

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Dead wood & angry sky

I took this photo on Maury Island, the tiny land blob adjacent to Vashon Island off the coast of Seattle. It’s a beautiful place—lush and green and fragrant—in all the ways that Las Vegas is not. Our first day there was perfectly sunny, and we spent it running past family farms that work on the honor system, kayaking just off shore and playing basketball in the backyard. But on our second day, the weather turned dark and just a bit ominous, and I snapped this photo of sun-bleached driftwood against the violent sky. It seemed to have just the right mix of dark and light.

Dead wood & angry sky